These pictures need few words. Liguria has places of a rare beauty, where sea and mountains merge into one, shaping striking gulfs and inlets.
Lerici is one of them: the "pearl" of the Gulf of Poets, a wonderful seaside village also famous for its deep bond with literature, history and the sea. I reached it in the late afternoon, by train from Viareggio, and I strolled along its seafront and had dinner in one of its many little restaurants. When evening came, the moon lit up the gulf and the atmosphere was truly magical.
The Cinque Terre, on the other hand, I got to admire over a weekend in early June, at a gentler pace. I reached Monterosso by train and stayed in a small hotel in the centre of the village. The weather was ideal: not too hot. We walked the Blue Path, which links Monterosso to Vernazza; from there we carried on by boat. Seeing the villages from the water is, without a doubt, wonderful.
I got off at Portovenere and admired this splendid seaside village, with the remains of its castle, the Church of San Pietro and a wonderful view over the gulf. Lunch was some excellent street food: a delicious pesto pasta served in a large cup, with a little fork, so you can eat it while walking.
On the way back, again by boat, I stopped at Riomaggiore, another lovely village. This is where the famous Via dell'Amore begins. Lately, during spring and summer, the villages, the trains and the boats get very crowded, so I'd suggest avoiding public holidays and the busiest periods.
Heading up the coast to the north, we come to Portofino. With its picturesque little harbour, its pastel-coloured houses and crystal-clear sea, it's one of the most charming villages in Italy. I haven't been there yet, and every now and then I imagine what it would be like to wander through its alleys, take in the view from the Lighthouse, or relax in one of the cafés looking out over the bay.
Further north still, leaving the Riviera di Levante behind, we reach Finale Ligure, on the Riviera di Ponente. This too is a characterful village right on the sea, with a long sandy beach. Along the so-called "budello", a narrow lane in the old town, you'll find plenty of little shops, bars and restaurants to eat and drink in.
Here I stayed in a small hotel right on the seafront and got to try several little restaurants, all of a high standard, with local and international cooking. It was a truly pleasant stay, wonderfully relaxing, but with the chance to enjoy outdoor activities too.
I, for instance, walked up to Finalborgo, a hamlet of Finale Ligure perched inland. It's a splendid fortified medieval village, about half an hour on foot. I know there are also many cycling routes around Finale, which sadly I didn't try, mostly given over to mountain biking, gravel and cycle touring.
I hope to return to Liguria soon, to walk one of its many trails again and swim in its beautiful sea. In short, I hope to live all over again the magic of the Ligurian Riviera, where nature and tradition meet.
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